Food Waste Bags

One of the best things about Korea is how well they deal with waste. Recycling is mandatory and they also require that you put most kinds of food waste in a separate bag, which you can purchase from any grocery store. The waste is collected and then converted into animal feed. 

This is a food waste bag that can hold about one liter of food. They also come in two liter sizes, and restaurants have their own kind too. I keep a bag in the freezer and add food until it's full. Then you take it down to the trash drop-off spot and put it in a specially labeled trashcan. 

My Filipino housekeeper told me a really funny story about these bags recently. There was a newly-arrived Filipino lady to our area who had been told about these bags, but only that they were 'food bags'. So this lady packed her lunch into one of them. This wouldn't normally be a problem, but on this particular day she ate her lunch while on the public bus (a faux pas in Korea, but she didn't know). She pulled out her bag and started to eat. The Koreans on the bus were horrified! They immediately started handing her money and any food they had with them. The Filipino lady was so confused, she already had a nice lunch. With the language barrier no one could explain themselves, but everyone involved had a good story to tell when they got home!

Local Excitement: We Have a 7-11!

We live in a neighborhood that was built on two lots in a small farming village. We're not quite in the middle of nowhere, but compared to where most people live in South Korea we're pretty isolated. My family medicine doctor was flabbergasted when she discovered that the closest physical therapy place to us was a 20 minute drive, and the closest pharmacy was a 10 minute drive. When we moved in, there were hardly any shops nearby and the ones that were closest were not very useful. So when we saw that an empty building at the end of our street was being converted into a 7-11 it was very exciting! 

Convenience stores are a significant part of Korean culture. You can get what you would expect: drinks, snacks, some prepared foods, but also things you might not expect: socks, underwear, makeup, some basic medicines, alcohol, hot water for your cup noodles (similar, but way better than, packaged ramen), baked sweet potatoes and tables to eat and drink at. Convenience stores are actually popular hang-out spots in the evening, and a decent lunch option during the day. 

Here is our new 7-11 on its opening day. You can see many flower pots and a big flower arrangement out front. These are gifts given to new businesses to wish them good luck and prosperity. There is a picnic table out front to the right, and on the far left of the building is an enclosed porch with four more tables to eat at. Later in the day when the weather got warmer the porch doors were opened and people were already hanging out!

Jeju

We also visited Jeju, an island off the southern coast of the Korean peninsula, during our brief freedom to travel. Jeju is a volcanic island (all volcanoes are dormant now) and because it's rather far south it has a bit of a tropical feel. It's very accessible by plane or ferry. This time we flew and it was a super easy trip. We drove an hour south to the closest airport, flew for 45 minutes, and we were there!

Although the people on Jeju are Koreans and speak Korean, they are somewhat separate from the rest of Korea so they have their own dialect of Korean (not very understandable to most Koreans) and many different customs. These statues are everywhere. They are stone guardians.

Our guide told us that Koreans like to stack stones for good luck. Simon enjoys stacking anything, so he joined in!

Volcanic rock coastline.

Jeju's aquarium is much bigger than Busan's. Here is the kids's touching pool. It was big enough for a whole school of some kind of fish! You could also purchase a packet of fish food for 500 Won (about 25 cents). 

The sandy beaches on Jeju are mostly created for the tourists. This is a rocky beach with some very interesting tide pools. We didn't swim, but Simon and I both slipped in and got wet feet.

Another beautiful view of the rocky coast and volcanic formations.

These are squid drying in the sun. These were hanging on a fence along a main road. I'm not sure how people know whose squid are whose, but stealing in Korean is very unusual, so they're pretty safe to just hang there.

This was a life-size maze. Simon had a lot of fun finding his way through (we think he cheated some.) The maze place was also a cat sanctuary and you could definitely smell them!

One of the three waterfalls on Jeju. This was the only one that was accessible to a four year old.

There's a type of hybrid fruit grown on Jeju called an apple mango. They were just out of season but we managed to find one in a grocery store. Our guide said she'd never had one because they were too expensive. I paid about 14,000 Won for this one, which comes to about $12. It was very tasty, but probably not worth the price for a single piece of fruit.

 

Busan

In June the health threat level was lowered and we were allowed to travel within South Korea. Our first trip was to Busan, a port city in the far south of the peninsula. Although there is a super-fast train that could get us there in two hours, we decided to drive because we really haven't seen much of Korea at all yet. The drive was about four hours, mostly through the mountains. It was very nice!

As you can see, the city of Busan is built right up to the water's edge. They do have some problems with flooding during monsoon and typhoon seasons, but land is such a scarce resource in Korea that I suppose they feel they don't really have any other choice. 

This is Haeundae Beach, the biggest beach in Busan. We were here early in the season, so for that reason and because of COVID, the beach was fairly empty. Normally during the summer people are packed in quite closely.

Haeundae and Busan from an overlook on the other side of the inlet.

Most Buddhist temples in Korea are built high up on mountain tops, but the temple in Busan is built at the bottom of a cliff. This temple is to honor a sea deity (from what I understand, although that doesn't seem quite right as Buddhism doesn't have gods as such). To get to the temple you have to go down more than 100 steps.

These are representations of various gods from the Chinese zodiac. The boxes in front are for collecting money people give to the gods in exchange for answers to their petitions.

Inside the main temple building. I'm a bit unclear what exactly happens here, but you can see food donations laid out. If you look closely, you can see a box of Choco Pies towards the right. Choco Pies are and extremely popular snack here. So much so, that they have been used as black market currency in North Korea.

This village in Busan, Gamcheon, started as a refugee village during the Korean War. The invasion by the North Koreans never reached Busan, so many people ended up here. The houses are built so close together that the roofs of some houses are the parking spots for the houses just above. In more recent times, the people living here have aged or moved on. But because it is such an important historical site, the government is hiring artists to paint and use the old houses for other purposes. This is also a very popular site for filmmakers.

The decorations on one of the houses in Gamcheon.

We took a sky car over one of the other main beaches, which had a fun park at the other end. Lots of dinosaurs! But also some nice walking paths and snack shops. 

 Busan has a small, but very nice aquarium. Here is the touching pool for kids.

Arm Surgery Part 2

My surgery was scheduled for March 23rd. It could have been a bit sooner, but since I wanted to do an outpatient surgery I needed to have an early time slot. Early is, of course, relative. In the States I have had early surgery times that required a 7am arrival time. Here early meant a 9am arrival time. This was a bit trying because I had to fast from midnight the night before, and we usually get up around 5:30am. I was SO hungry and thirsty! And, unfortunately, the surgeon was a bit delayed. So I didn't end up going up to the operating room until almost 11:30. In the meantime, I was prepped by the nurse in the outpatient ward. In Korea hospital-wear is pants and a shirt! Definitely an improvement over the standard hospital gown in the U.S. 

I was hooked up to an IV and tested for an antibiotic allergy. Since I was fine, I was given a prophylactic antibiotic in my IV along with the usual bag of fluids. My sister-in-law's parents, Jackie and Steve, kindly agreed to meet me at the hospital and drive me home afterwards. Jackie was a nurse in the U.S., so she was super helpful to have around to help with communication. However, we were having such a good time chatting while we waited for the surgery that the nurse kicked her out. We were, apparently, being too loud. Fortunately, my turn came soon afterwards. I wasn't given any other medications before going to the operating room and I actually had to walk up there myself with the orderly. The only thing he did was show me the way. I was responsible for my own IV pole which was super surprising!

In the OR I was put on a gurney and given a warm sheet. Two nurses spent some time trying to figure out if I was allergic to any medications, and I finally had to write them down myself once I figured out what they were saying. Then they moved me into the lobby of the operating room, and left me near the entryway of the recovery room. I waited by myself for about 20 minutes and watched patients being wheeled into and out of that room. At one point I tried to sit up because I was super uncomfortable laying on the hard bed. Then someone came over to tell me that was dangerous, and that person stayed with me for the rest of the time. I was then wheeled into the operating room. On the way we passed several other operating rooms with large windows in the doors. I didn't really want to see what was going on inside, but I didn't have much choice!

I got a really good look at my operating room, because unlike in the States I was left wide awake while they did a bunch of preparations. When they finally did try to put me to sleep I had trouble inhaling the gas through the mask. I was pretty anxious at that point and couldn't breathe deeply enough to make it work. So they put something into my IV and that was that. 

Unfortunately, the philosophy behind pain management in Korea post-surgery is to give the least possible pain medication. (I've asked around, Koreans don't understand this policy either!) Since I don't get as much relief as expected from those kinds of medications anyway (a genetic thing) I was in pretty bad shape. After a double dose of what they had (I found out later all it was was liquid Tramadol- not very effective for me  in the best of times) I was sent down to the outpatient ward. I still wan't doing very well and the nurse who was transferring me from one bed to the next actually hit me on the back several times when I was having trouble moving myself. I didn't understand that at all! Jackie was allowed to come sit with me at that point and I begged her to get them to give me something else for the pain. She managed to talk them into it even though they objected, and I was given yet another dose of Tramadol. Ridiculous.

After a couple of hours I was allowed to drink some water. Shortly after that the surgeon came to see me. He was really happy with the results and so excited about it that he whipped out his phone and showed me pictures he had taken mid-surgery! I normally don't mind seeing things like that, but something about it being the insides of your own body and also the leftover nausea from the medications made it a bit hard to look at. He said he had given me some prescriptions and he would see me in two days. Jackie went to pay the bill and pick up my prescriptions from the hospital pharmacy. She also got me a yummy mango yogurt smoothie from the hospital coffee shop. Then she helped get me dressed, put a face mask on me, and we were on our way home.

Imagine my surprise when I got home and found out I was given, no exaggeration, TEN prescription medications to take at home! Most of them were pain-related medications, although two were for "digestion". I couldn't believe it. Why in the world did they withhold so much in the hospital and then give me such an excessive amount when I left? I was, however, much more comfortable once I got some of those medicines in me. My husband made me some scrambled eggs for dinner and I was off to bed. 

Although it was not a pleasant experience in the least, I am grateful that I was able to have the surgery. I wasn't functioning well at all beforehand, and the surgeon fixed several issues that I had dealt with for a long time. On top of that, if I had been in the States at this time I wouldn't have been able to have the procedure done because of the Corona virus. Korea didn't need to put off non-urgent procedures because they had done so well keeping on top of things before people got to the hospital. There was no worry that hospitals would be over-crowded. 

So much of this experience was different than I was used to, but I am not sure whether it is because of the social medicine or because of cultural differences. It's probably a bit of each. I am very interested moving forward to see how they deal with rehabilitation after surgery. So far I am just supposed to keep taking my medicine and not do too much!

Stories from my Filipino Housekeeper

Since sometime in October we have had a housekeeper come once every two weeks to do some of the heavier household chores. I met her at the grocery store on base because she liked the flowers I had picked out and started to chat. Her name is Rose and she is married to an American contractor. Her English is very good, although not quite fluent. Not for lack of trying, however. Rose is extremely talkative. Although she usually works only for about three hours, I'm always exhausted by the time she leaves! Since she's been coming here I have learned a lot about Filipino families and way of life, about being married to a black American man, and about her previous adventures before getting married. Here are some of the random things she has told me:

Just before Rose was born the current baby of the family (a boy) died of an illness. Rose's mother was very disappointed that she turned out to be a girl and decided to give her away to some friends. For her first seven years of life Rose was raised by two sisters and their brother. By the time Rose was old enough for school her mother decided to take her back and send her to school. It seems that Rose and her mother never did have a great relationship, which is understandable. However, Rose is grateful that her mother sent her to school. And family loyalty meant that when her mother got sick Rose paid for the treatments. That's why she took up housekeeping here even though she doesn't need to work. She wanted to pay for her mother's dialysis treatments back in the Philippines.

Her mother passed away a couple of months ago, so now Rose is continuing to work to help pay for her sister's son's upbringing, since his father won't claim him. The parents are not married and actually the father is married to someone else. Rose thinks that the father will eventually claim her nephew as his son because his other children are all girls. The father will need a son to pass his property on to since it doesn't seem that girls inherit.

Rose is careful never to criticize me openly, but she does leave strong hints that I am not nearly strict enough with my son. When she was growing up it seems that beatings were regularly given in her household. There was even an incident when one of her older sisters sneaked out of the house and all of the other seven siblings were beaten for not stopping her. Rose seems ambivalent about these beatings. She thinks her father had every right to give them, although of course she did not like it. She has stopped short of recommending that I do the same and seems to be unsure whether it really is the best way to treat children. She doesn't have any children of her own, so she hasn't had to make the choice for herself. But she likes to tell Simon that if he behaved the way he does in her father's house he would never do it twice! (Since her accent is rather strong I think Simon hasn't really understood her, thankfully)

When Rose was 21 she decided to leave the Philippines and work abroad. Although this is a very common thing for young Filipinos to do, at least one of her (American) uncles tried to discourage this plan, worrying about her safety. If you ever meet Rose you will understand why this would never actually be a concern. Rose is extremely strong, practical, and capable of defending herself!

One of the first places she worked was in Saudi Arabia. She was employed by a company that provided housekeepers to Saudi families and businesses. I am not totally clear about the timeline, but I think the first place she worked was in a private household. Everything went fine for a while until the husband of the house took a fancy to her. She did her best to avoid him, but one day she caught him in a compromising state while ogling her. She left the house, went directly to her employer and told them she needed to leave. Thankfully they agreed and she went back to pack her things. She informed the wife that she was leaving and the wife begged her to stay and even started unpacking her suitcase. Rose was having none of it. She told the wife exactly what her husband had done, grabbed her stuff, and walked straight out the door.

At another point Rose worked in a kind of orphanage in Saudi Arabia. She said most of the kids there were not actually orphans but were illegitimate children. When I expressed some concern for the children being left in an orphanage she did not understand. Where else would they go? Obviously the parents could not keep a child in such a situation (obviously...)

Another employer Rose had in Saudi Arabia wanted to marry her. She would have been either the second or third wife of this man. She did seriously consider marrying him and even converted from Catholicism to Islam in preparation. For some reason, however, this plan fell through, and Rose returned to the Philippines. When her father found out she had converted he put his foot down. He was NOT going to have a Muslim living in his house. So Rose prudently re-converted back to Catholicism.

Rose's education seems to have been somewhat less than adequate. Perhaps it emphasized English over other subjects. She also has no problem dealing with money and budgets, but seems to have never been taught anything about science. She was amazed one day when she saw white flowers in colored water on our counter. It had never occurred to her that this was how flowers sometimes had such unusual colors. Quite a revelation! She has little concept of medical issues and distrusts almost everything doctors do or say. She herself never takes any prescribed medication, although she does at least help her diabetic husband manage his blood sugar. And she made me some excellent ginger root tea when I had pneumonia.

Last week Rose spent a lot of time telling me that she doesn't think cancer exists. The doctors may say someone has cancer, but what's really happening is organ failure. Lung cancer? No such thing. It's just someone's lungs starting to fail. There's so much to be said against this idea I couldn't think where to begin so I just nodded and smiled. Needless to say, she does not seem to think much of my work in philosophy. I get the impression that she views it as a hobby of the rich and not worth anything in the long run.

Although I find her company exhausting, I am always very entertained by her. She is a loving and caring and loyal person, if a bit rough around the edges at times. She has done amazingly well with her life considering the many obstacles growing up in poverty has given her. And she is most definitely the strongest person I've ever met!

Corona Virus Part 4: Dealing with Boredom

Here in South Korea most things have been shut down for almost a month now. Schools are closed, any large gatherings have been canceled, and people are staying away from coffee shops and restaurants. Most of this is true for the army base, but we are allowed to go to worship services once a week as long as we don't shake hands, socialize too much afterwards, or hold any extra-curricular activities. The stores are also open on the army base, but they have started checking IDs at the door to limit who goes in and out. Movement and temperature checks are still being held at all the gates before we can go it.

So what can you do at home all day with a four year old? This is some of what we've been up to: 

First time flying a kite!

Lots of walks outside in the (almost) spring air. Some trees have baby leaves now!

The house is cleaner than it's ever been.

Final painting of our volcano

Playing at friend's houses

Volcano with paper mache drying

Constructing the volcano

Seeing how white flowers change color in colored water

We check the flowers very regularly!

Playgrounds aren't off limits, but we are careful to sanitize our hands afterwards.

We're on our second time through the whole Peppa Pig series!

Lots of coloring and painting

And LOTS of new books!

A new outside toy!

And some early spring planting. We did sunflowers and peas today.

Arm Surgery Part 1

Sometime in January a nerve in my right arm went bad. This has happened before, so I had a good idea of what the problem was and what would be needed to fix it. It is nearly impossible to see the American doctors on the base here, so I went to an orthopedic surgeon at the hospital up in Seoul that we have been using for medical care here. Most doctors understand English here because medical literature is only written in English. Many doctors also go to the U.S., Australia, or England for medical school. However, their spoken English is not necessarily very good (which is fair enough and I definitely don't expect them to be fluent). This surgeon, however, neither spoke nor understood English very well, but refused to use a translator. After a very brief exam, he confirmed that I needed surgery, but said he only did one of the two possible procedures. He ordered two tests and a follow-up appointment in one month. Additionally, even though I was in a good deal of pain he offered me no medications or alternatives for pain relief. My sister (an orthopedic nurse practitioner with the same problem I have) didn't agree, and I didn't either. I've had both procedures and had better luck with the alternative. So I decided to try another hospital nearby that had also been recommended. 

Things were completely different at the second hospital. I had an appointment with an orthopedic surgeon on Friday morning at 9:30am. By 12:30pm I had seen five doctors: two orthopedic surgeons, a rehabilitation doctor (something kind of like physical therapy), and two micro surgeons. It is a university hospital, so two of the doctors were residents who had their supervisors see me after they did their initial assessment. It seems the doctors do a lot of things that other kinds of people do in the States, like imaging and physical therapy, which explains the other doctors. In addition, all of the doctors spoke really good English. I could tell most of them weren't super comfortable speaking English, but they all did great and were very patient making sure we both understood each other. And I had a translator with me the whole time in case there were problems.

It was super impressive how efficient everything was. I only had one appointment scheduled, but in the space of three hours I had the five doctors visits, blood and urine tests, an EKG, three x-rays, an ultrasound on my arm, several orthopedic tests and three prescriptions filled and I paid the bill for the full treatment, including surgery and follow-up. Once they decide you need help you get it all at once! Part of the efficiency comes from how everything is set up. Doctors are almost always located in hospitals, rather than separate clinics. So when you need something like a blood test or x-ray, you are in the right spot to get one. And although you can make separate appointments for each individual doctor/procedure if you want to, they also structure things so you can move easily from one department to the next as needed. 

To be fair, part of the efficiency may be because many people are staying away from hospitals because of the corona virus. I was always either the first or second person in line for each department. Under normal conditions it may have taken a couple more hours to get everything done. Even still, it is a very impressive organizational system! Also, (maybe because of the virus too) I can get the surgery done in three weeks. Since it has to happen, the sooner the better!

Corona Part 3: Update from the front lines

The situation in South Korea is getting worse, but still not a major panic. The government and the U.S. Army are implementing (not always rational) measures to try to contain the spread of the virus.

We are peppered with "Extreme Emergency" alerts on our phones at the rate of about 12 a day at the moment. Some of the alerts let us know where the new cases are located so we can avoid those areas. Today (Sunday) we have gotten two asking us not to go to religious services. Although communication in general is good, the frequency of the alerts, not to mention the very loud sound our phones make when they come in, don't really help calm the nerves in this situation. At least Simon has gotten so used to the alarm sound that it doesn't bother him anymore. He just says "someone else is sick, I guess." I have started turning my phone off at night because they come just as frequently at night.

All on-base gatherings have been cancelled for the week again, except we were allowed to have church services this morning as long as we didn't shake hands, hug, or socialize for an extended period afterwards. But there won't be any school or child care again for this week. Good news for the kids, not such good news for the parents!

Information about who can access the base and when has been very confusing and sometimes contradictory. Essential personnel can always get on, but those of us who aren't essential are sometimes told to stay away. If we can get on the base we have to go through a health screening and have our temperatures taken. They also ask if we've been in an increasingly long list of places within the last 14 days. However, this list doesn't seem to mean much and is different at different gates. This morning the local train station was on the list, and I had been there 10 days ago, but I was allowed to go through anyway. At another gate that my husband went through they had the hospital I had visited Friday on the list. But since it wasn't on the list I was shown then I was fine. We suspect that communication among those in charge is not quite what it should be.

Sadly, we heard this morning that the Korean government official in charge of emergency response committed suicide this morning. There is a not-well-understood problem with suicide in this country and this poor man was the latest victim. One's public reputation is very important here, and I suppose he felt that the high number of cases, as well as the increasing number is partly his fault. In fact, however, it seems South Korea is doing very well with preventing the spread of the disease and quarantining people rapidly when they've been exposed. Perhaps the problem was how very transparent they are being about it all. Everyone knows just how bad it is, which perhaps he felt reflected badly on him.

On the positive side, we are managing pretty well. We have plenty of food, the weather is nice and we can get outside to play. I was also (thankfully!) able to schedule my much-needed arm surgery quite quickly since most people are staying away from hospitals unless absolutely needed. All-in-all it could be much worse!

Corona Part 2

South Korea has gone to full alert status due to the virus and the American community seems to be in near-panic mode.

Even though there are very few cases of the virus in our area, yesterday almost everything non-essential was shut down. Schools, child care and any church-related activities are canceled: pretty much anything that would mean gathering in groups. Most of the base gates are closed, and the few that are open have staff to check your temperature and symptoms before you can enter. This has caused hours-long and miles-long traffic jams, which means that most people in this area can't get to work. I'm not confident these measures were really thought through in the way they should have been!

My Korean tutor texted me yesterday to see if I could still come to my lesson. She's super bored because lots of Americans are too worried to go out. I went to my lesson partly because I wanted to hear how things are on the Korean side of things. People don't seem to be overly worried, although there were fewer people out and about, but support for the church at the center of the biggest outbreak is waning. It seems Koreans are very tolerant of alternative beliefs as long as the members keep it to themselves more or less, but now that the church's activities are affecting everyone else people are not so indifferent. The church was rather secretive prior to this outbreak, but they've lost all of their secrecy at this point. It turns out there are four congregations right here in Peyongtaek that most people knew nothing about.

Incidentally, this conversation led to an amusing one about religion in general in Korea. There doesn't seem to be any religion that wouldn't be tolerated here, but my tutor said she couldn't join any religion that would restrict how much or what kind of meat she could eat. They REALLY love meat here, especially seafood and pork. This might explain why Buddhism doesn't have quite the same hold here as in some other Asian countries, since it generally encourages a vegetarian or vegan diet.

So far we're surviving just fine, although I'm really regretting not going to the commissary yesterday. There doesn't seem to be any hope of getting either there or the post office in the next couple of days. I suppose this will be a good opportunity to explore Korean shops a little more!

Corona Virus

 As I'm sure people have heard, the big news at the moment in South Korea is the corona virus going around. The initial panic seems to have subsided, but there's still plenty of concern about what will happen as the virus plays out. Here have been some of our experiences.

This is a mobile phone alert about hand washing and using a face mask and staying in contact with health services. We've had three of these so far.

There are also signs up along the roadway as additional reminders. This one also reminds you to wash your hands and cover your mouth and nose. And gives you numbers to call for information and/or help.

Two less serious warnings I've had came from people with less-than-expert opinions. My Korean tutor told me that I should avoid the main mall in Pyeongtaek, since the one person in the city who had the virus went through the mall just before he came down with symptoms. My Filipino housekeeper also warned me not to open my windows to let in fresh air because "the virus might come in." :-)

Last week I went up to a hospital in Seoul for a routine check-up (almost all doctor's offices are inside hospitals here). Before I could make the appointment I was asked more than ten questions about whether I had been in China, had contact with anyone who had been in China, whether I had visited any other health clinics, etc. At the hospital itself they were in all-out prevention mode. As soon as I walked in the door my temperature was checked, I was made to sanitize my hands and put on a face mask. My temperature was checked two more times before I even saw the doctor. Once at the entrance to the clinic and another time while sitting in the waiting room. Unfortunately, I my temperature was slightly raised (who knows why!) so I got checked one more time before leaving. I was let go since I had no other symptoms.

While I was in the doctor's office the nurse reminded me to wear my face mask at all times. I find it a bit hard to breathe with those things on so I had pulled it down off my nose. That was not acceptable, apparently.

One benefit of all this to me personally, however, was that people are cancelling many of their appointments at the hospitals. That meant I could see an orthopedic surgeon a week earlier than I would have otherwise been able to. I am very grateful for that, at least!

The Americans in our area appear to be much less concerned than the Koreans about the virus, but I did see this sign up in the base post office yesterday.

I guess a few people are worried!  :-)

Public Announcements

There are lots of public announcements in South Korea. Some of them take the form we are used to, like signs above highways letting drivers know traffic conditions. But even these are slightly different because they also tell you the day's air quality. Bad air quality is a huge problem here and anything past level orange you really aren't supposed to go out unless you have to. So every time you get on the highway you are informed about what the current levels of ozone and PM2.5 are.

We also get regular public safety announcements on our mobile phones. Since we've been here we've had warnings about high temperatures, low temperatures, excessively bad air, public safety officials hunting wild boar (there was a bad swine flu epidemic in the early fall), and today we got a warning about the corona virus going around Asia. That announcement was a bit entertaining because we were warned to do the usual things, like frequent hand washing, but also to mind our "coughing manners" and to wear face masks.

All of the above announcements are always in Korean, but with translation apps and context we can usually figure out what the announcements are about. The one kind of announcement we still can't figure out is the loudspeaker announcements. These come about once a week, but not on a regular schedule. We can clearly hear the announcements even from inside our (concrete) house. We've asked neighbors what's being announced, but we haven't gotten clear answers—even from the Korean-speaking neighbors. The best answer we've gotten is that it is "community matters." I guess it might be things similar to the text messages we get, but Korea is a pretty high-tech society and mobile phones are ubiquitous. Also, the loudspeaker announcements are much longer than would be needed to communicate all the other kinds of messages. It's just one more mystery for the foreigners!

Food Delivery

Just after Christmas an amazing thing happened: we can now get food delivery! We were told that you can get anything delivered in Korea, but it so happened we moved to the one area where that was not true. Since we're in the middle of farm country, and on the particularly unpopulated side of the army base, we have not been able to get food delivery. I suppose that there's enough new neighborhoods now on this side of the base that the delivery services added our area on. So we've been exploring all the new options. I've been particularly impressed with the packing of the food. Here are some examples:

Thai: Each container had a kind of plastic sticker lid that you peeled off.

Indian: Naan (folded into the shape of the bag it came in), biryani and raita, plus two curries. Interestingly, no rice on the side!

Turkish: For some reason there are about five Turkish restaurants all just off base. And they're all amazing! We got nicely organized kebab platters with a couple of sides.

Pizza! With our very own disposable pizza bag to keep it warm. The pizza wasn't amazing, but it also didn't have any of the unusual toppings Koreans tend to put on pizza. The oddest we've seen is shrimp, potato, and corn. I think you can also get squid pizza!

Vietnamese: In the center is a bag (bag?) of broth set into a plastic bowl. To the left and right are noodles, meat, and vegetables to add to the broth. The ones on the right are also bags (again, bags?!)

We've been thoroughly enjoying the luxury of food delivery. Too bad it didn't happen before I came down with pneumonia!